Ultimate Six Frock Coat - the pattern

A few months back, when I had the honour of being able to see a plethora of screen-used costume pieces for myself first-hand, I had the chance to handle an original Six Frock Coat.

I took pattern traces from a number of the items in front of me, but when it came to the Frock Coat - this was something else.
Only when you get to see it in the flesh and touch it can you appraise the work and skill involved in it’s creation – I’m not saying it’s my taste, but you just gotta admire the craftsmanship.

I’m not ashamed to say I was intimidated.

I limited myself to some photography and general reference, but left it at that for now.

Over the following few months I worked on a number of projects, notably a Five Coat for Bob Mitsch In the States and a frock coat for Ian Cummins in Australia, plus I have been working on another frock coat for myself - but more on that another day.

All of these were worked to a basic frock coat pattern, and used similar techniques in construction, by the end of which I've become a bit of a dab hand when it comes to the frock coat as a pattern.

The key points that for me make a coat a Frock Coat are as follows:

• A horizontal seam at the waistline, coming right round to the front leading edge

• The back panels divided in half by a distinctive curved seam meeting at the small of the back with a button

• Often having the outside pocket set in the waistline seam

• On a vintage pattern, the shoulder seam runs at an incline away from the collar

Understanding how these key points work together is key to devising a good working pattern.

So, this last weekend I had the chance to view the Six Frock Coat again, this time with the specific intention of taking the pattern trace I need.

With all I have learnt recently, I can approach my latest opportunity to see the coat forearmed with a greater understanding of what I am looking at and how to ensure the style of the coat is maintained in my interpretation.

There are also a number of secret points about the coat, which I’m afraid are going to remain just that, secret, so trust me when I say my pattern trace exercise went well and I now have something to seriously work from.

I’m suitably excited!