Sunday 23 December 2012

Ultimate Six Frock Coat -
back section

So far I have assembled the Left Pocket Section (see left) and the Right Pocket Section (see right).

Today I am starting work on the back section, which once done means I can assemble the body of the coat and try it on for size for the first time! I can’t wait.

Back Section

The back looks relatively simple, but it contains the single most expensive fabric I need for the coat, as well as the most fiddly bit to make.

The Woven Back (fabric 9) panel is a one-off piece, which I have had to commission my hand weaver to make.

It contains a number of yarns of different colours and qualities, so rather than search for each in the right combination, he individually dyed each to the right colour.

It took quite a while for it to be woven, as it is a very complex and intricate weave, and now it’s here I’ve been putting off cutting for as long as possible - I don’t want to go ruining the fabric by cutting it wrong!

The back itself is not particularly difficult to assemble, as I just need to sew the two halves together. But the only thing I need to watch out for is how the woven back fabric can skew and twist compared to the more stable Green Felt (fabric 3) side. Still, there are tricks to controlling fabric.

Next is sorting out the dreaded Appliqué Strip, appropriately referred to as Fabric 13!

The theory behind making it is easy enough, but it needs to be made to very accurate measurements and there is very little wriggle room for getting it wrong.

I’ve been thinking and plotting how to make this as easy for myself as possible, and I came up with a few ideas which seem to have worked well.

I had a few blind alleys along the way, but now it’s come down to it I’ve truly got it cracked.

The arrival recently of the Red Tartan (Fabric 1) means I can finish the back off in one go, as the tails are of Green Felt, with the Appliqué Strip sew on and the Tartan.

Here is the finished back. Do let me know what you think.

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